I have made 2 pair of itch-to-stitch Liana stretch jeans, that is a very, very nice pattern. I had very good fit right from the first version which was a straight size 8. I absolutely love them, they are by far the best fitting pair of jeans I have ever owned Also: AMAZING sew along!!! The fly on the second pair is now perfect.
I used stretch denim with only 3% spandex, which is not quite enough to get the 20% stretch the pattern calls for. For my next pair I will use denim with 4% spandex. (I used this fabric).
My main concern is the waistband, where the pattern calls for twill tape. I am not happy that it is so un-stretcy; I love stretch jeans because of the comfort, so I will try to find a middle way, so the waist won’t stretch out, but still be a bit flexible. Maybe stretch-fusing-tape or elastic in the back half of the waist band?
My alterations so far:
– Added 8 cm/3″ in legs length
– 2 cm low butt adjustment
– I didn’t have twill tape for the waistband, so I just cut 1 cm wide from thin women cotton fabric
– Made the back pockets a bit smaller and placed them 1,5 cm higher/ 0.6″
– Didn’t make the facing at the pockets, as I want stretch in that area
– Swayback adjustment, 2 cm/0.8″
– Uni-butt adjustment CB, 1 cm/0.4″
My next pair will be in denim with the required amount of stretch, so I expect them to be even comfier Also, for my next pair I will use 1 cm seam allowance (in stead of the 1,25 cm the pattern calls for) everywhere to get just a tad more wiggle room in the jeans. I think about using shoulder band for stabilizing the waistband, as it is sa bit flexible and still firm.